What a long strange trip its been
While I am sure that the late great Jerry Garcia did not have the Middle East in mind when he penned the classic Dead song, I can think of none more appropriate than that to sum up my experience in this wonderfully amazing, confusing, scary, loving, poor, wealthy, beautiful, war torn, foreign land.
When 26 random students from NU boarded a Luftanza flight for Cairo, they had no idea what they were getting themselves into, including myself.
After 24 hours of flying we could barely make heads or tails of what was going on that first day. But before we knew it there they were, just as I had seen in so many books and movies my entire life, the great pyramids of egypt.
We mounted our camels and headed up towards one of the great wonders of the world. For some reason I had no idea camels are exceptionally tall, so I spent the better half of the first twenty minutes just hoping I didn’t fall off. As the winds picked up while we inched closer and closer I assumed this was the natural weather of the desert. It was not. Who could imagine that the day a person finally sees the pyramids for the first time it will be in the middle of a sandstorm! That’s just how this trip was meant to be I suppose.
Now I suddenly find myself sitting on my couch, in my living room, with my dog, eating ramen and drinking milk (not together, that is just disgusting, but they are two foods that I missed the most).
I realize that when I left this very house some six weeks ago I felt seasoned, rounded, worldly and knowledgeable. I have returned knowing that I was naive, sheltered and had more than a lot to learn.
Looking into the eyes of the small children during my visit to Ain El Sira has fundamentally changed me to the core. When a thirteen-year-old girl, whose ten-year-old brother works twelve hour days for a dollar, tells you that she wants to do something great with her life, that she wants to be a doctor, you cannot help but change. To live in such immense poverty and still have hopes and dreams of a better future for yourself and those around you, truly captures the human spirit that lies within all of us.
While the story that I wrote about micro-finance with my colleague Kristina was wonderfully published on our main blog I do not intend to stop there. The program is so powerful and influential, when run properly, that I cannot simply turn my back to it now that I have returned to my cushy surroundings. So I use this blog as a forum to try and begin a local drive to raise money for the Alashanek lending group in Cairo. Here a just a few images that may encourage others like myself to want to help these wonderful people.
A convenient store and some local children
The amazing beautiful children of the neighborhood
To say she can steal your heart with one look would be a gross understatement
I will be putting more together for anyone that would like to contribute to this great cause in the near future.
Leaving Egypt was a sad and thrilling experience. After spending three weeks on the island of Zamalek it had begun to feel like home. The wonderful people at the Flamenco who always made us feel welcome, to the cute little old man at the falafel shop around the corner who lit up like a christmas tree when I would return to his store, were hard to say goodbye to. Not to mention the one and only Abdu. From finding lost members of our group, to organizing soccer matches, Abdu truly is the James Bond of Egypt, anything you could possibly need or want he can make happen. I miss you terribly Abdu.
Now, Syria. I had no idea what to expect when I stepped off of the plane. As we were ushered into the VIP waiting room I knew that this would be a very special experience. As we met with different ministry officials it became clear that we were not somply being treated well because of that little blue passport, it seemed as though we were the first link in a long awaited Syrian /American relations change. As times we felt like pawns in a political game, but if being used grants me access to high ranking cabinet members… use away! I am a journalist and contacts are vastly important in having a successful career. Now granted, when the anti-Israeli tirades were underway I found myself uncomfortable at times, but that was mostly due to my own ignorance about the history of the two countries.
Visiting the Golan Heights was an emotionally draining experience because of the massive destruction that remains to this day. Bombed out hospitals and churches, barbed wire fences, and the UN are all that remain and that is a truly sad sight.
After an action-packed visit we were boarding yet another plane and heading to Qatar. I had heard that this was a city like none other in terms of wealth and construction, everything I heard was true.
It seemed as if no one actually lives in Doha, it is all office buildings and hotels. I expected a very Western feel, but the only Western aspect was the skyscrapers. The city of Doha is extremely conservative and unlike the other countries we visited, no one was walking the streets. It is hard to grasp a culture that you have no submersion into. Everyone has a car and drives from one place to another, with little interaction.
Doha at night
Then came the reason we were here, Al Jazeera. The main entrance serves as a museum to the history of the station and those who helped build it. The vest of a journalist killed by US missiles is encased in glass, as is his bullet proof vest and helmet. As we continued the tour of the studios one cannot help but feel as though this is where a foreign correspondent belongs. This network has informed so many people of the events affecting their lives in a way that no one before them had been able to do. I admire their work and look forward to their US birth on July 1.
And as I finish this last post, from my couch, I want to thank everyone involved in making this trip possible. I also want to thank my colleagues who endured traumatic times, unbearable stress, and unstoppable laughter, along this journey of self-discovery with me.
Al Jazeera
Arriving at the Al Jazeera compound was a stark contrast to the television stations I have been to in the States. The stations property seems to cover acres of land and is highly guarded and surrounded by fencing. 
The entryway of the AJE (Al Jazeera English) network serves as a museum to former employees and professes the journalistic beliefs on which the station was founded.
The mission and vision statements glow underneath the tables in the room. Their motto:
“the opinion and the other opinion”
The vest worn by Tariq Ayoub, an al-Jazeera cameraman in Baghdad, when he was killed when a US missile struck the Qatar-based TV station’s office in Baghdad on April 8, 2003.
Ihtisham Hibatullah , senior planner of communications and corporate relations, provided a thorough background on the station before escorting the group of American students upstairs to the boardroom.
Hibatullah was joined by Richard Lewis, program director for the network and Satnam Matharu the head of international and media relations.
Lewis told the group that AJ provides the majority of the news regarding the Middle East to the rest of the world. He said, “They give a voice to those that have long been without.”
With AJ’s conception in 1996 they have been able to gain a leg up in the region over all other news networks. For instance, they are the only international presence in the Gaza region.
“We have earned our stripes,” said Lewis, “AJ provides an alternative service that all people should be aware of.”
The network will be taking a massive leap forward in Western relations with the launch of it’s first 24 hour a day network in the U.S. The station will air in Washington, D.C. on July 1. 20 other cities throughout the country will also carry the network on smaller scales.
Matharu explained that while AJ would enjoy a larger presence in the American market, cable companies have extreme control over the programming that is aired. Programs are tested for commercial profitability and then picked up, or passed on.
Matharu went on to explain that AJ was loved by U.S. administrations from 1996-2001. “We were seen as taking the tape off of peoples mouthes and the Arab people finally had a voice.”
Unfortunately this quickly led to the Bush administration and their subsequent dealings with the network. “We continued to show both sides. We showed the missiles going up, but we also showed them coming down,” said Lewis. He went to discuss the images that were being shown on U.S. stations and how they compared to those of an old video game.
Matharu told the students that when they received the first Bin Laden tape, following Sept.11, it was a 45 min which they cut down to 2 min. “In this region Bin Laden tapes were news.”
Donald Rumsfeld accused AJ of supporting and promoting terrorist propaganda, a label that the network is still trying to peel off today.
“It has been a very difficult perception to change,” said Matharu.
The AJ network is founded on the belief that all stories need balance for truth, opinion, and safety. “Most right minded people accept balance and arguments to any story,” said Lewis.
AJ currently has the highest credibility rating in the Arab world, according to the latest Nielsen ratings.
Lewis feels that AJ prides itself on being a journalism of depth. A recent Pew study found that there has been a decline in the quality of news coming from the West due to commercialization. “We don’t want that,”said Lewis, “Fox News is like Jerry Springer meets journalism.”
When news is decontextualized it means nothing, AJ feels it is providing that context to all of its stories. AJ has 69 bureaus across the globe. “Our reporters are bold. They live and breathe the culture. They report with a level of authenticity that parachute journalists cannot,” said Lewis.
“Journalism is more important than medicine in some ways,” said
Matharu believes that reporters can change the course of history by covering world events. After journalists started to bring home photographs to America from the Vietnam war, the people’s perception of that war was forever altered.
“The world is in a big mess, so we can change that. Journalism is more important than medicine in some ways,” said Matharu.
Ode to babybel
While Shwarma (a.k.a. mayonnaise and pickle with shaved chicked) sandwiches and falafel can be delicious and filling the first ten times you have them, student journalists constantly on-the-go often need some quick food savior at their disposal…
BABYBEL TO THE RESCUE!!!!!! Although they may look small and unsatisfying, paired with some complimentary pita bread from that mornings breakfast those little waxed covered wheels of cheese can allow even the most famished student to survive hours in a bus with a tour guide that enjoys talking more than Regis Philbin. Thank you babybel…and thank you Osama!
The Golan Heights
Approaching the historical site of the Golan Heights, I was unsure of how I would react once I saw it. To my surprise before we toured the area, the Mayor of Al Qunaytirah, the town in the Heights that remains inhabited, greeted us. Of the 1,860 sq. kilometers, 1,260 remain under construction. The current population is 510,000.
The Mayor told the group of American students that the destruction of the area was intentionally done by Israeli forces in 1973 after the war was over. He said they destroyed the city once peace had been established just to bring more harm and terror to the area.
Much of the town has been left in the same condition it was after 1973 to serve as a live witness, or living museum. He said that the Israeli’s have destroyed man, stone, and tree.
The Mayor went on to say that when the Israeli’s left the area they left behind more than 1 million land mines. Many of these mines are shaped in shiny and colorful forms to, supposedly to attract children. Two months ago, two children were killed by a mine while walking a cow home to their village.
The United States sanctions have been in effect since 2003 under the Syrian Accountability Act. The Mayor said these sanctions affect every aspect of the Syrian economy.
As many before him, the Mayor spoke of his hope for the new Obama Administration. “We cannot say we are optimistic until we see the outcomes in his policy in this region,” he said.
He said that it is absolutely out of the question to leave one particle of sand of the Golan Heights in Israeli hands. He also said the Palestinians have a right to return to Jerusalem as their capital.
“Golan return is a matter of dignity for us, it is our land. It is unanimous among Syrians that the whole of Golan should come back.”
Mayor said that Israelis have conducted over 211 excavations in the heights trying to find relics or ruins of Hebrew historical roots, as the search has been in vein.
He said that Bush spoke of Iraqi democracy. As a result of the war Iraq has offered more than one million martyrs, and thus widows, and over four and a half million orphans. .
“This is the democracy of Bush, no American citizen would accept these actions.”
When asked about the U.S. Israeli relationship he said that he believes Israel controls the U.S.
The Ministry of Information
Thursday afternoon the Syrian Ministry of Information, Mohsen Bilal, met with a group of Americans students to discuss issues facing the region…or so we thought.
After an initial meet and greet in Bilal’s office, the Minister, students, and teachers were led through the halls of the Syrian television and radio communications building into a press conference.
Much to everyone’s surprises the Minister, along with professor Sullivan, sat at the head of the room full of student journalists (us) and Syrian journalists, along with Syrian television.
Bilal began the meeting by saying, “We consider the great people of the United States a friend to us and to all people of the world. The United States is a great country and a superpower country.”
Bilal told the Americans that they were all welcome in Syria and that he wants to reach a point of peace, love and understanding. “Terrorism has no religion, race, or nationality. It is a disease against all of us.”
He went on to say, as they all have, that there is one party responsible for poverty, destruction, and the non-security in the country. “We are suffering from occupation, it is our illness.”
Although the United Nations is responsible for stability in the whole globe, it is clear that the United States is also critical in that stabilization.
In response to more than one very loaded question Professor Sullivan maintained poise and eloquence when responding by saying, “The entire world suffers from an occupation of injustice.”
He went on to point out that fact that quality of leadership throughout the world needs improvement.
After the continuing rhetoric about who is to blame for the problems in the country, Minister Bilal said that the only means of peace is a two state solution. Since both sides have agreed to this term at one point or another, it remains hopeful that one day this may actually happen.
Ministry of Higher Education
On Tuesday night the Syrian Ministry of higher education, Dr. Ghitath Barakat, met with a group of American students studying abroad in the Middle East.
He began the lecture discussing the government’s allocation of money for higher education. Until 2006, all universities in the country were governmentally funded. Three years ago private universities were finally allowed to enter the country and now 15 private universities have been established.
There are over 600,000 students attending universities in Syria.
Although most of them are governmentally funded, Barakat brought up the point that almost half of the country’s budget goes towards defense. He said that the country is constantly under attack and must consistently defend them. They are also housing 500,000 Palestinian refugees and 1.65 million Iraqi refugees.
Barakat, like many of the people we have met with, was quick to bring up the Israeli conflict. He said, “We are for peace, we are for intercultural communication.”
He said that establishing peace in the area, would lead to the establishment of peace in the world. He also noted that America represents the model for liberty, freedom, and the fight for human rights. He said that Syria would like that model to continue.
Students in Syria take a baccalaureate test in order to decide if they can attend college and what they will sturdy. In one sense it is similar to the SAT or ACT. However, the fact that the results of the test determine whether or not you become a doctor or an architect or a teacher, can seem a little unsettling. When students apply they rank from 1to 20 the majors they would like to have and based on their scores and the schools needs they are placed.
Attending college for most Americans is a time in which a person figures out their goals and dreams for the future. Many people change majors two to five times in the first few years bouncing from biology to business. Here, that time for self-discovery is not allowed. The students only pay ten dollars a year, which is phenomenal, but they are not given many choices after their acceptance.
Of the 80 percent of students that are accepted, another 150,000 can take the parallel track and pay 3000 dollars a year. While this number seems incredibly low compared to U.S. standards it is still quite difficult for families to afford. When asked if students that come from lower income families are provided any assistance, Barakat said that there is student credit unions set up for such issues.
Barakat believes that students are the bridge to communication between Syria and the U.S.
Currently, Syrian students cannot go to the United States to study for PHDs and other types of degrees due to the Syrian Accountability Act. Barakat feels that this act is a clear violation of human rights.
When I asked Barakat if there were any books that were banned by the Syrian government he claimed that there were not. He said that there are many texts that they need and want and cannot because they come from America and the SAA prevents them from having them.
Syrian Wedding Party
As we sat outside the hotel at the lovely Italian restaurant working and eating we were bombarded with noise of a loud beating drum. Considering this is a relatively quiet area of town, our journalistic instincts forced us to jump to our feet and find out what was happening.
There were signs posted in the hotel that a wedding would be happening this evening, so we assumed this must be related.
As we walked into the parking lot outside the hotel entrance there were a group of men dancing and singing.
As the drums continuously beat the men we perched on one another’s shoulders singing and dancing. There was a leader who was yelling (in Arabic so we did not understand) and had all the men following around.
They proceeded to bring out swords and some sort of metal awnings. They lit several torches on the awnings and danced under and around them. The drums continued to beat throughout the ten-minute ceremony, although one obvious absentee was the bride.
After a few minutes we were informed that women were not allowed to be a part of this celebration, but we stayed anyway. It was such a clear example of being in the right place at the right time.
Throughout this trip we have had the experience to meet with dignitaries and ministers, which has been amazing, but it is these spur of the moment experiences that are truly once in a lifetime. My camera died while taking pictures so I will add photos of this amazing night tomorrow.
Syrian Dep Minister of Foreign Affairs
Syrian Deputy Minister of Foreign Affairs, Abdul Fattah Ammourah, spoke with several American students at a meeting on Sunday afternoon.
The meeting began with Ammourah providing some background information about Syrian history.
As we began discussing the Iraq war it became evident, as was expected, that Ammourah felt very strongly about the U.S.’s decision to invade Iraq.
Syrians told the West that Sadaam was dangerous long ago, but they did not listen. Ammourah said that when the Iraq war began Syria said that it was unjust, and illegal. He claims that they knew a military use of force could not solve the Iraq problem. He feels the solution must be political.
The withdrawal of U.S. troops is critical to stabilize the area because it will give the Iraqis hope that they can protect themselves. He feels that the militias must be disarmed and the National military must be properly trained.
Ammourah said that Syria would be willing to help train the Iraqi soldiers and assist in a National reconciliation.
There are over 1.5 million Iraqi refugees living in Syria. No one is helping to take care of these people, especially not the wealthy country that they came from.
Ammourah said the Syrian government is waiting to see what Obama will do in order to help with peace between Israel and Palestine. Syria talks to Israel through the Turks, but says that the peace must be based on national dialogue.
“We will never compromise land for peace.” He feels that no Syrians will accept any form of peace offering while the land they believe belongs to them is still occupied.
Ammourah said Syria attaches great importance to America as a broker of peace between the regions. He feels that it is within everyone’s best interest for this to be achieved.
He believes that there is no chance for peace with Israel due to their extreme government. Israel had refused the Arab peace initiative. Instead Israel invaded Palestine using internationally banned weapons.
As the Bush era has come to a close, Ammourah said that there is a hope for change. He believes the dialogue between the regions will bring an end to the Bush principles of isolation. He believes that Iran should be viewed as a geopolitical force that can help broker stability in the region.
According to Ammmourah, Syrians believe in peace. “Killing is not the way.” It will be an open dialogue that will lead to political solution. With the hopes attached to Obama, he explains that there is no reason for people to hate Americans.
“We are all creatures of God. There is only one civilization, the human civilization.”
Syrians believe in a distance between citizenship and religion, but we can all live together. “We suffered before you (Americans) suffered, because of extreme terrorism.”
We are now looking to the younger generation with feelings of hope. The mass media can be used to assimilate love and friendship.
American University in Cairo
The American University in Cairo is home to more than 5,000 students from around the globe. As a dialogue student we were given the pleasure of having an interactive classroom discussion with one of the other local dialogues. Our physical appearances may have differed, but our structural beliefs we not that far off. The first issues poised for discussion were the Cairo Zoo and the zabaleen. Being an overly sensitive animal lover, I chose not to visit the zoo. After hearing about the atrocious conditions, I was pleased I had made the right decision. Some of the AUC students wanted to remind us that the conditions of the zoo paled in comparison to the conditions in many of the local slums. Having not had the experience of the zoo I chose to keep my opinions to myself. But my question is…if they cannot afford to care for them, why don’t they let them go? The students made the point that the animals are seen as a means of income and with the poverty level so high they must make money by any means necessary. Then, within the same breath, they began to quote the Koran and cite versus about prostitutes getting into heaven for giving a thirsty dog water. Alas, we moved on to the Westernization of Egypt. Many of my colleagues expressed their surprise at seeing such a rampant blanketing of the English language and American products within Egyptian culture. “We are a tourism state,” a student said. They went on to explain that people must learn several languages in order to communicate. Years of colonization by the British have also contributed to this fact. Speaking English is not just for the rich, lower and middle class people are also taught the language because of their involvement with tourism. Then I decided it was time to open the can of worms that is women’s rights. One of the students said that some of the “bad things” that come from the West are too much sex and that women are too free. That’s a fantastic way to set me off. Now, I must note that the views in this blog do reflect the class as a whole on either side. As we sparred back and forth I realized that there are two sides to the story. One of the students brought up the fact that men do not always have a choice of whether or not they have to work because in this culture they must provide for their families or be disgraced. While I feel that is a strong point, I do not believe that it justifies denying rights to women. Men may not feel they have a choice because they need to provide, but at the end of the day they do have a choice. I will not continue on with a women’s lib rant, but the ability to interact with these worldly students was an enlightening opportunity.
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